The French River District - Canada's Tourist Paradise



You cannot live in Northern Ontario without developing a love for the outdoors.

 We were very fortunate that our first posting on entry into Canada in 1967 was to the French River District.  Some would suggest that we lived out in the sticks but we were heartened by the fact that many tourists in the summer and winter paid a fortune to spend time in this idyllic part of the country. 

Some would say that the winters were long, cold, hard and harsh but that is only if you chose to lock yourself indoors for the entire duration of the winter.  When I arrived at the French River I had youth on my side.  Somehow I gathered that old age and winters just did not agree.  I also located in a town that was built around scenic rivers and lakes. Having lived close to the Indian Ocean most of my life I had already developed a love for anything that resembled the ocean or was close to water.

I soon invested in a fourteen-foot aluminium boat which I could accommodate on top of my eight-cylinder sky-blue Chevrolet Malibu.  The two-and-a-half horse power outboard motor could be safely tucked away in the trunk of my car.  As a result I was able to access most of the rivers and lakes in the area thanks to the friendship I developed with a French Canadian senior who was a guide in what can only be described as pioneering days and therefore knew the rivers and lakes as though he had created them himself.  As you can well imagine, our fishing trips were always a great success.  The French River itself was a treasure of all kinds of marine life and this made it very interesting.  My French guide showed me the way to get to the “five fingers” where fishing was at its premium.  The “five fingers” was a land formation in the centre of the swift flowing river of the French River that allowed water to rush through rocks that resembled a giant hand as though it was clawing at the river bed. You quickly learned, however, that venturing into this complicated river with no knowledge of it was suicidal.  One could easily get lost in the maze of inlets that somehow looked the same to a novice.

A less complicated river was the Murdock River where fish were plentiful, but one had to know the spots or fishing became totally unproductive.  Mercer Lake was just around the corner and was an excellent lake to introduce my son to the wonders of fishing.  You almost got the impression that fish in this lake were trained to commit suicide.  Every cast of the line brought in a fish of varying sizes.  A few miles from us were two small lakes.  It would seem that the locals had run out of names for they came to be known simply as Lake One and Lake Two.  Lakes One and Two were full of Northern pike of various sizes. Some of them were regular monsters.

In the spring, the Magnatawan River became the main attraction.  It was the “smelt run” that attracted hundreds of people to the river.  The river became a hive of activity on both sides of the river.  This also became a family event.  The smelt run took place a little before midnight.  The only equipment that one needed was a scoop net.  When the run was in real earnest, a couple of scoops were enough to fill an entire garbage bag with these sardine-like fish.  Many families would start fires along the river and while some members scooped up the fish, the others were involved in a fish fry.

In the winter ice fishing was a popular sport.  Investing in an ice drill made drilling holes in the ice an easy task.  Because it could get to fifty below zero, building a huge fire on the ice was always a welcome task.   It was always very cold but if one wore layers of clothing it just did not seem to matter. With the introduction of Ski-do suits there did not seem to be any need to wear a whole lot of clothing. The suit kept one snug and warm all the time.   Quite often you were perhaps the only person on the lake but it was frozen hard and there was no chance that you could slip in.  I was informed that when the ice froze to six inches in thickness, it could support a truck.  My car always remained ashore.

I was introduced to the technique of ice fishing.  Using the ice drill it was easy to make a hole in the ice, ten inches in diameter, until you hit water.  Sometimes the ice was up to five feet thick. You then let down a baited line through the hole making sure that that the bait was about a foot above the bottom.  You then tied the line to a stick and using the ice shavings that collected as you dug the hole in the ice you anchored the stick by pressing hard on the shavings that now held the stick firmly.  You then proceeded to make a couple of holes in different other spots using the same technique. Parking yourself next to the fire which always preceded the digging of holes in the ice, you kept an eye on the sticks that held the lines.  Before long you notice that the sticks begin to bend as the fish try to move away with the bait.  This is a time of real excitement.  You tug on the line hard enough to set the hook and depending on the size of the fish you play with the fish until it gets real tired.  You then yank it out of the hole.  Left out in the open it takes ten minutes for the fish to get frozen solid.

My French guide introduced me to the skill (learned from the native Indians) on how to get a fire going.  It was not difficult to find dead and dry branches that could be easily harvested.  In addition I was advised to collect some small twigs under which were placed a handful of birch bark that could readily be peeled off the bark of the tree.  The birch bark was the catalyst in starting a fire for when a match was applied it burst out into a flame as though one was lighting gas.  Once the flame started the little twigs were added with much patience until the flame started growing.  It was only then that larger logs were added to the growing flames and before long you had a raging fire going.

Hunting was also a popular sport in the French River District.  Some hunters showed a preference to hunt for large game like moose.  This was going to be their only source of meat throughout the winter.   With my .22 my interest was in shooting partridge.  This had to be done very early in the morning.  I did not venture into the thick forests all around us.  I took the easy way out.  I drove my car very slowly on the roads that skirted the area and invariably I would come across a partridge feeding on the gravel in the various lanes.  I then proceeded to open the door to the car very carefully so as not to disturb the bird.  Fortunately I was a good shot and would land the target without any difficulty.  An hour’s hunting was sufficient to bag at least half a dozen of these birds. 

Shooting rabbits in the winter was also a popular sport.  I shot a whole lot of rabbits but since my wife was not inclined to cook them, I would clean them and keep them in our giant freezer in waiting for our friends from Sudbury who waited for my invitation to take what they wanted from the freezer.  This included a whole lot of fish that I had caught but never got around to eating.

The High School where I taught had a table tennis table which was used by both Staff and students.  Many hours were spent there, particularly on weekends challenging the many students to games that soon became very competitive.

We bought our first house in a place called Noelville.  It was an old broken-down house right in the centre of town.  We paid $10,000 for it.  In those days that was big money.  We were able to obtain a mortgage from the Caisse Populaire which was the only credit union in town.  With two salaries coming in, and a deliberate tightening of our purse strings, we were able to pay off the mortgage in a year’s time.  The teachers where I worked volunteered to help me renovate the house.  We started from the outside.  The brick siding was ripped away, and so were the shingles on the roof. The wooden structure underneath was fully exposed and it was a sorry sight.  In a day’s time the shingles were replaced, and the outside walls were dressed up with white and light blue aluminum siding after the walls were appropriately insulated.    The team then moved into the inside of the house. They dropped a wall to make the living room much larger; installed ready-made wooden panelling for the walls instead of dry-wall and covered the floor with plush carpeting.    They then tackled the kitchen and made it look modern.    The only bathroom in the house needed a tub which was conspicuously absent. The original owners had their showers in the basement and the waste water was piped out through a drain.  A contractor was brought in to move the walls of the bathroom back a bit in order to make the bathroom accept the tub.  When the house was finally completed it was not only the best looking house in town but it also became very livable and very comfortable. The Pereiras became the talk of the town for their resourcefulness.  The neighbours were thrilled to have such a good looking house next to theirs.  I guess the value of their property went up too.

I was not a handyman but I was able to learn a whole lot from the teachers who worked so industriously and happily as long as I kept the beer coming.  When the house was completed, we threw a big party for all the helpers and their wives.  I think that the whole town must have known that something was going on in the Pereira house that night.  We made sure that our next door neighbours were invited too so that there would be no complaints from them.

Once the house was fit for human habitation, I spent some time on the large lot next to us attempting to grow a garden.  Nobody in town built fences around their property and I had fully intended to conform to this practice.   I asked a farmer close by whether he could give me a hand to plow the garden with his large plow and to use his spreader to spread dead manure which also came from his farm.  He willingly agreed to do this for me at a very small fee, so one Saturday he came in with all his equipment and got to work.  Since there were large trees belonging to the neighbours next to what was going to be my garden, the roots of these trees ran right across my lot.  The farmer attached special equipment to his tractor to lift all these roots some of them quite massive and then proceeded to chop them off.  He then did a great job of spreading the manure and working it into the soil.

Once this was done, I planned the garden in such a way that corn was to be grown close to the road and I had at least two rows of them.  I then had three rows of potatoes; two rows of tomatoes; two rows of beans; and in between I had planted cucumbers and pumpkins.  The garden was a real hit.  We would spend our mornings weeding the garden and that provided us with much needed exercise. 

When harvest time came we would dig up at least a hundred pounds of potatoes.  We stored the small ones for seeding the following year.  The basement was cool enough to keep the potatoes from rooting right through the winter.   We had more than we needed of most of what we grew so we gave much away to friends who visited us from Sudbury.  The vegetables were organically grown and because of the manure enriching the soil they grew very luscious and good to eat.

About the most beautiful time of the year was the Fall.  The trees were a thing of beauty to behold. The splash of colour wherever one looked filled ones heart with happiness.  The only sad thing about the Fall colours was that they were short lived and before you knew it the first big flakes of snow were to be seen reminding us that warm clothes better come out from storage and that the house was to be prepared to face the winter all over again.

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